The first automatic DE BETHUNE calibre saw the light of day in 2006. It was designed for the DB22 power and then modified for the DB24 big power, both watches focused on the best possible sport watch that we can produce. With the success of this automatic calibre in our sport watches we felt it was time to reintroduce the movement in a more classical case. A classic case magnificently executed with elegant lugs emerging from the case and dials of timeless appeal. This new timepiece, the DB25, illustrates once more the passion which drives David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, founders of the DE BETHUNE Manufacture, persistently to improve the fundamentals of watchmaking and to create unique timepieces for people to discover.

Before describing the aesthetic details of this watch, it is necessary to explain its automatic movement, the DB2024, which is completely manufactured within the DE BETHUNE workshops. With a diameter of 30mm, like all the movements of the brand it has the celebrated titanium / platinum balance developed since 2004 to meet one of the aims of David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet: “to improve the performance of the mechanical watch”.

Made of titanium and platinum, this balance enables the best inertia / mass ratio to be achieved and reduce variations caused by shocks. It consists of four titanium arms with inertia blocks which beneficially replace the usual rim to obtain the best mass / distance ratio. The balance spring is fitted with the flat terminal curve; this is positioned in the same plane as the balance spring itself, facilitating its fixing and eliminating the need for the delicate process of adjusting the timing. At the same time it enables the height of the spring to be reduced by 2/3 in comparison with a classic Breguet overcoil. It also plays a shock-absorbing role, avoiding the risk the spring being distorted through shock where it contacts the balance spring stud. Developed in 2004 by the DE BETHUNE Manufacture, it enables perfect isochronism to be achieved. In conclusion, this balance is protected by a triple-parachute system which allows the balance to be positioned in a more exact, more stable manner, also enabling it to absorb shocks through the springs fitted to the ends of the bridge.

This automatic calibre is wound by a rotor made of titanium / platinum in order to ensure great inertia with minimum mass. This considerable inertia drives the wheelwork of the automatic winding system in an ideal fashion. In addition, the oscillating mass is pivoted on a ceramic ball bearing which enables the use of oil to be avoided and which gives increased freedom of rotation by reducing friction. To protect the ceramic ball bearing from shock and to limit side pressure on the bearing, the titanium / platinum oscillating weight is fitted with a central anti-shock system consisting of four little spring feet and 12 jewels. Finally, since titanium is very flexible, it has the effect of a spring and enables shocks to be absorbed.

The case consists of three pieces: a screw back and a bezel pressed onto a case . The case is machined from a single block so that the lugs combine extreme fineness with great strength. This result without welding is possible through the process of 5-axis machining.

Achieving great legibility with discretion, the power reserve is indicated in a window at 12 o’clock.

The DB25 collection is based on two models. The first has a silvered dial, guilloché by hand. The hour ring sets off the central guilloché pattern radiating in 12 sectors and emphasises the barleycorn guilloché outside the dial. The second model has a titanium dial. The minute figures are reflected in a mirror deposit on the glass to give a lustrous effect. The hour markers consist of little spheres of blued steel.

Available in white gold or rose gold, this new timepiece once again demonstrates the depth of this brand’s technical knowledge and skill.


Technical description

Reference    :    DB25 RS1
Material    :    rose gold or white gold
Case    :    drum
Case dimensions    :    44.6mm in diameter and 11.1mm thick
Dial    :    silvered, guilloché by hand, or titanium
Hands    :    steel, hand-polished
Strap    :     alligator leather with traditional ardillon buckle
Crystal    :     sapphire, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown    :     screw-down at 3 o’clock – settings in 3 positions
Movement    :    DB2024 • automatic • diameter 30mm • 274 parts • decorated and with a snail pattern executed by hand, steel chamfered and polished by hand • fine adjustment in 3 positions • titanium / platinum oscillating weight with a central shock-absorber system • double self-adjusting mainspring barrels • titanium / platinum balance with flat terminal curve protected by a triple-parachute anti-shock system
Functions    :    hours, minutes • power reserve window at 12 o’clock
Jewels    :    53
Frequency    :    28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve    :    6 days

Source: De Bethune press release